marisa zupan

Editor’s Note: This is part of a series on The Sig Other, “On A Personal Note”, where men of all ages write about their thoughts —good, bad, ugly, humorous or otherwise—on their personal style. Feel free to contact me about it if you’d like to contribute.
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I once had a girlfriend who was always embarrassed because I “dressed like a professor.” Then a few years ago, “dressing like a professor” became cool, and I somehow ended up with a clothing company. I am pretty certain that this trend – like most – will pass, and I will go back to embarrassing my girlfriend. But in the meantime, I am wearing tweed and herringbone with pride.

I have always loved clothes, and I am not sure quite who to blame for that. Maybe my grandfather who wore a seersucker suit every Sunday in the summer or my father who wore a tie to dinner every night of my childhood. As a kid, I remember getting my first suit. I was 10 years old, and the suit was tan and double breasted. It made me feel like a mobster, and at 10, that was a very good thing.

Flash-forward to high school, and like many people who end up in the clothing business, I spent a lot of time in thrift stores. I had a tailor at 16 and would take clothes to him to be altered and then wear them to school the next day. Let me tell you, a camel hair blazer, moleskin pants and shoulder-length hair made quite a statement against a backdrop of throwback jerseys in the high school halls of the 90’s.

Fifteen years later this strange affinity for clothing had me passing up more lucrative pursuits and going to work for a tailor on Jermyn Street in London. At a lunch one day, he looked at me and laid out the key to the clothing business: “Be the best, make the best and the rest will follow. Style and trends will pass, but quality and craftsmanship will last a lifetime.”

At a lunch one day, he looked at me and laid out the key to the clothing business: “Be the best, make the best and the rest will follow. Style and trends will pass, but quality and craftsmanship will last a lifetime.”

It’s a pretty basic concept, but one that we certainly apply to our business and that I try to incorporate into the way I dress. I have a few very well-made pieces in my closet. They are classic in style and simple in construction, because things are made simply tend to last a long time.

When I get dressed, I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about what works. I am a guy and most importantly I want my clothes to fit well, last and be comfortable. When people look at how I am dressed, I don’t want them to say “what a great outfit,” I want them to think that guy “dresses well.”

I think there are very few rules in dressing, if any. Maybe, only wear sunglasses when sunny, and always wear a blazer on a plane. The latter holds true, as many pockets are a must, and I have found that if you look like you belong in first class, you can sometimes find yourself there.

But that is about it. In the end, I think a man’s clothes should fit well, last a long time and not embarrass his significant other. On a good day, I can hit two out of three.

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Paul Trible is the CEO and Designer behind Ledbury, a men’s shirting company based in Richmond, Virginia. Learn more about his story here.

Not a day goes by that I don’t discuss the gems unearthed on eBay with my closest menswear comrades. Perhaps it’s the thrill of finding something previously thought unfindable, or maybe it is the satisfaction that you’re the victor in a heated bidding war for something you’ve coveted for half a decade—no matter what the reason, eBay-ing has become the unofficial sport of #menswear.

So, with the help of a few discerning menswear influencers, this post uncovers some of the best finds out there right now—but time isn’t on your side so investigate with urgency, bid with confidence, and may the best man win.

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MARISA ZUPAN, EDITOR, THESIGOTHER.COM
thesigother.tumblr.com / @thesigother

Brunello Cucinelli Plum Cashmere Sport Coat

“A Cucinelli piece is considered a true life-long investment. And with good reason, the brand is renowned for its incredibly high quality Italian craftsmanship, as well as its incredible use of color and fabric. This rich plum cashmere jacket is no exception—and one that will last forever and earn its place in your closet as a stand out piece.”

Thom Browne Charcoal Wool Suit

“Ask most menswear enthusiasts about their favorite designers and chances are Mr. Browne tops the list. Furthermore, the go-to grey suit is generally held as a cornerstone of any discerning man’s wardrobe. This suit is a revised classic, edited by Browne to have a slimmer silhouette and shrunken proportions including his signature super high-hemmed pant.”

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JONATHAN EVANS, SENIOR STYLE EDITOR, ESQUIRE.COM
esquire.com/style / @mrjonathanevans

Levi’s Four Pocket Denim Jacket

“A new denim jacket is great and all, but some of the vintage models out there—like this one from Levi’s, complete with that impressive fading—are real things of beauty.”

Paul Stuart Shell Cordovan Moccasin Loafers

“I’ve been on the hunt for a good pair of shell cordovan shoes, and this one fits the bill quite nicely. Classic English footwear that’ll only get better with age.” 

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NICO LAZARO, WORKS AT OVADIA & SONS, BLOGGER
thebengalstripe.com / @nickelcobalt

 1990s Ray-Ban Gatsby Style 8 Sunglasses

“Revel in nostalgia and be prepared for the upcoming film remake with these simple Art Deco-inspired shades.”

Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren Denim Fireman’s Jacket

“An iconic design from Ralph dating back to the early 90′s I believe. Fashioned in a medium-weight light wash denim with sturdy silver hardware throughout, use it as a bold yet resilient chore coat or think of it as a collector’s item. The small rip is an easy stitch-up job.”

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SCOTT MIRTSOPOULOS, BLOGGER/DJ
scottem.com / @scottmirts

Wtaps x Bape Digi Camo M65 Jacket

“A Bathing Ape and Wtaps are two of the longest running Japanese street wear brands, both of which have a long running history together. For me, this is an ideal piece since it’s a classic m-65 silhouette, but the pattern on it is the clincher. They took the usual Bathing Ape camo and digitized it, giving it an incredible uniqueness you’ll never find elsewhere.”

Junya Wantanabe x Brooks Brothers Navy Wool Blazer

“This jacket has been at the top of my grail list since f/w 08 when I first saw it. Junya works with Brooks Brothers, Levi’s, Duvetica and other companies every season to bring us some of the most unique garments in menswear. This is one of the more expensive collaborations Watanabe has ever churned out. It’s a recurring collab almost every season, but this was the highlight year so far. I love that it has a lot of classic elements, but there are enough details in its fit and fabrics to make it special.”

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 JAY AREM, FOUNDER, THE KNOTTERY
theknottery.com / @brooklynesque

Phineas Cole Suit

“A quintessential statement suit. Although it’s a super loud pattern it would be a perfect seasonal suit to wear in full with a solid turtleneck sweater. Use the jacket with a pair of jeans, or orphan the trousers with a solid navy sport coat for an updated British look.”

Peal&Co. for Thom Browne Boots 

“Admittedly, I have a shoe buying addiction. These boots take out the guesswork of what to wear with what. While they’re built like a dress boot, they’re made with pebble grain leather. This allows them to be worn in a casual way—or to work.”

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This post is part of eBay Finders, a new partnership that presents collections of items curated by a carefully selected group of style setters. Find more inspiration at eBay Fashion [http://bit.ly/TqLtgo]. #eBayFinders  

Editor’s Note: This is the first of a new series on The Sig Other, “On A Personal Note”, where men of all ages write about their thoughts —good, bad, ugly, humorous or otherwise—on their personal style. Feel free to contact me about it if you’d like to contribute.
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It’s real simple, be simple.

When I first got into the clothing business there was this flashy false identity that I thought was necessary to emulate. Then I met someone who changed all of that. He was in his thirties, drank too much coffee and smoked for release on his infrequent breaks. He wore generally the same thing every day. Monday to Saturday his style never changed because he never changed. You knew him from the moment you met him, a genius who wore a deep navy wool fresco suit complete with torn lining. There were patches on the elbows where he had worn them thin making everyone happy. His shirts were never bold. There was never a morning he gave tying his tie more than one try, it fell how it was supposed to.

Over time, I grew to want to be that man. My failure to be my perceived ideal allowed me to pour myself into beginning to discover who I was, although it was a shock to me that it wasn’t self-evident. He taught me how to work and live. Moderation was now what I sought out. I would ask him for advice on style and he would reply by asking me what my passions were. The point was that style goes beyond clothing. You have to know yourself before you can ever know your style, so you cannot have someone else’s style.

I would ask him for advice on style and he would reply by asking me what my passions were. The point was that style goes beyond clothing. You have to know yourself before you can ever know your style, so you cannot have someone else’s style.

In the months following I began to make more decisions that were consequential to me. The more that this happened, the more my style changed. Thrift stores held more value to me than specialty men’s shops. Patterns in my selection of clothing became clearer as more of who I am came out. It seemed that everyday more of the superfluous was eliminated.

My style is not influenced by the perceived ideal of style you see so frequently in popularity today, but rather a cultivation of my person on an instinctual level. It is who I aspire to be. Always be inspired to learn. Learn from those who are simple and humble, the men of habit. Learn who you are and listen to yourself. Put yourself in the situations necessary to make choices consequential to yourself. Having style is a reflection of your past and your posterity. It is an ageless lesson that you can impart to others as the years pass and your voice goes quiet. Remember style always leaves a legacy. Make yours profound and wear it always with love.
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Patrick Doss is a veteran of Sid Mashburn, works at Suitsupply in New York City and doesn’t have an account on tumblr.

I’m just going to cut to the chase: the Isaia SS ’13 collection has no competition. You have probably already come to this conclusion based upon seeing The Making Of, a five chapter photo project commissioned by the brand to document the creation of the collection from inspiration to final product, (shout out to the very talented Justin Chung). While this post is certainly no Making Of, it is here to say that the collection is, in the flesh, as beautifully balanced, conceived and executed as that project would lead you to believe. Pause. If not more so.

This was made clear to me after I visited the Isaia showroom a few weeks ago, an experience that I can only describe as “something akin to how Scrooge McDuck must feel while diving into piles of golden coins”. In other words, it was a menswear jackpot. True to Isaia’s reputation, color is the backbone and driving force in this collection—masterfully executed and brought to live through custom fabrics and impeccable construction. This season, the color stories were inspired by Naples and the surrounding area. Golden yellows, lush greens, terracotta reds and that vibrant aqua hue of the water, a color which is threaded throughout, and ultimately defines the season’s palette.

Below, I’ve tried to capture my favorite moments but I encourage you to see it for yourself when it drops in stores next spring. Many thanks to Agyesh Madan and Brian Cook who so graciously walked me through the collection, humored my spouting of superlatives, and afforded me the most inspired lunch break I’ve had in quite some time. -M

Today, GQ eye gave The Sig Other a humbling stamp of approval. It is an honor to say the very least and I have to thank Erika Owen for an amazing write up and to Sean Hotchkiss for his mad skills behind the camera. I’d also like to take a moment to thank everyone who has read the blog, supported me and collaborated with me thus far. The people are what make this all worth it and I am lucky enough to have worked with some of the greatest out there. These past three months especially have made me feel even more grateful and lucky to be even a small part of this thing called menswear, and something tells me that’s not going to change any time soon. Here’s to living luxe, in every sense of the word. – M

//Read: Blogs to Follow: The Sig Other on GQ.com

Going into market week, I knew wanted to feature a brand I thought was the one to look for—not a group of 10 hopefuls—one exemplary brand.  A few weeks ago, the team behind the New England based luxury bag company, Lotuff, invited me up to their factory in Norwalk, Connecticut and after visiting, I realized I had hit the jackpot. Lutoff has been around for three and a half years and has seen its share of reinventions, and great successes — today, Steven Alan, Barney’s and Bird carry the bags, to name a few. Still, the brand seemed under the radar for most.  So, it was with very little knowledge of the brand, other than its quality reputation, that I accepted the invitation gladly. What I came away with could honestly fill 10 blog posts—not only was process and product exceptional but the people behind it had stories of their own, and conveyed a passion that clearly permeated into all corners of the business. Here, in five parts, I wanted to capture some of that spirit, and the mentality behind the business. It is a company that has it’s priorities and heart in the right spot—something that translates into the quality of each and every bag. Exemplary.  – M

//Shop: lotuffleather.com
//Market Week: Lotuff will be in NYC at PROJECT July, 22 – 24

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— I —
“We believe in old world craftsmanship and a world class team”
Upon walking into the Lotuff factory the first thing you’ll notice are the stacks and stacks of gorgeous tanned leather, that fill the building with that undeniably luxe smell only premium leather has. The second thing you’ll notice are the looks of passion and excitement on the faces of each and every person working. It is immediately clear that premium materials and premium craftsmen are the ingredients to this company’s success. Indeed, when asked what Lotuff’s core values are, Joe Lotuff, co-founder and owner of the brand, responds without missing a beat:
“We believe in old world craftsmanship and world class team. That is how we never compromise on tradition, process and quality.”

Joe Lotuff, co-founder and owner

— II —
“I am in this business because I am addicted to it”
Over the next two hours, I discover just how true Joe’s words about Lotuff are.  As I speak with each member of the Lotuff core team, their endearing obsession with creating premium leather bags. Louis, the head craftsman, traces the beginning of his training to his father’s workshop, who taught him how to count by sorting leather watch straps. Louis worked in the industry for over 50 years, from the 60′s and 70′s when American manufacturing was booming, into the downturn in the 80′s and 90′s, right through today’s recent resurgence of Made in USA pride. Today, he works with Lotuff training his team in techniques rarely seen these days. “I am still in this business”, he says smiling,  “because I am addicted to it”.

Louis, Head Craftsman

— III —
“Same, premium quality inside and out“
It’s not just production that happens in the Connecticut workshop – from conception to execution, everything happens under one roof—a rarity, especially in the United States. Between my conversations with them, Louis, head pattern maker and Lindy, creative director, pour over specs and the felted comps they make of every bag. Behind them, local craftsmen hand make each and every piece – from stamping each panel of vegetable dyed leather, to stitching them together on vintage Singer machines, to finishing each edge to ensure an entirely streamlined seams.
A hallmark of Lotuff bags is their signature unlined construction, which I learn from the team is more difficult to execute than anything fully lined.  “Think of an unlined bag like an unconstructed blazer.”Joe says, “There is no lining to cover up any imperfections in the seams. The leather, construction and the finishing needs to be the same, premium quality inside and out.”

Louis, head pattern maker

— IV —
“Menswear mentality to women’s bags“
With men’s leather goods firmly under their belt, Lotuff’s next big initiative is women’s bags. The women’s concepts and designs are led by creative director Lindy, and it’s clear she’s not resting on their laurels—she’s pushing the team to literally reinvent their design sensibility while also sticking to their core processes and standards of quality. As she put’s it, “We’re making bags for women, it’s a completely different market, with different customer needs  but we are determined to bring a menswear mentality to women’s bags. We want to make products  for women who understand quality and construction”. (Editor’s Note: Preach, sister.)

Lindy, Creative Director

— V —
“This is the path to the American dream”
At the end of the day, it’s clear there is a singular goal at Lotuff: to create something of unparallelled quality, and exceptional beauty all in the United States. After seeing the techniques used and team behind the brand, I can honestly say they’ve hit the nail on the head. Greg, the brand ambassador who orchestrated my eye opening visit, is a perfect example of how and why Lotuff excels. Greg is recent college graduate, with little experience in leather production, but he touches every part of the business. Based completely on his entrepreneurial spirit and belief in Lotuff’s mission, he has been given the autonomy to grow brand into it’s next iteration. It is clear that there is no pretense or egos here, just smart, elegant, hard work. Joe explains it this way: “I believe every single individual should be empowered to do exactly what they want to do and do it to the best of their ability. This is the path to the American dream.”

Greg, Brand Ambassador/Secret Weapon

As you might have gathered, I recently spent some time in Austin. While I was there for personal reasons, I will admit a potential visit to Stag also made the trip very attractive. Once ranked by GQ as one of the best shops in the country, Stag sets itself apart from many other shops that might top that list because of its location and the clear influence Austin has on the owners, ethos, approach and aesthetic. Through out the shop, suit jackets, ties, and gingham button ups customary to any men shop, are off set by a ruggedness, adventurousness and I’d even say a creativity that some stores fall short of providing. From Elvis Costello records, to beard oil, to an incredible selection of western silver and turquoise jewelery, Stag isn’t a place for your run of the mill #menswear customer. Keith Richards would love this place. And I’m pretty sure James Dean would shop exclusively here. But that doesn’t mean a John F. Kennedy type couldn’t find a thing or two to his liking as well. And just to make sure everyone gets along, beers are provided for all. My kind of place. – M

//online: stagaustin.com
//location: 1423 S. Congress Ave. in Austin, TX.

And now for a brief personal interlude: This weekend my good friends, Billy and Lola, were married in Austin, TX. I met them both late one night freshman year of college and over four years our group of friends came to see them as two of the most generous, positive, and wonderful people you could ever meet. Six years later, at the French Ligation Museum (which may be the most picturesque wedding location in the country), we all came together again to celebrate Billy & Lola, re-live old memories, and dance till we couldn’t dance no more. As you might imagine, my buds from college aren’t what you’d call shabby dressers and the early evening light was a photographer’s dream, so taking a bad picture was impossible. (Below are my favorites, see them all on Flickr). To Billy, Lola and all who were there, thank you for one of the most memorable weekends I can remember. – M

The Gents

The Ladies

The Couple

This week I was perusing the NYPL digital archives and came across these beautifully done mens catalogs from the 1920′s – 1940′s, published by Detmer Woolens. Not knowing a thing about the company, I did some digging and found that the history of Detmer Woolens is a pretty tragic tale, which is perhaps why so little about the company is still known. Detmer Woolens was an NYC textile business founded in 1985 by Ohio native Julian Francis Detmer. Through it’s history, the company met with a series of misfortunes including an unfortunate involvement in the notorious fire that destroyed NYC’s Parker Building, and being accused of what was essentially marketing fraud. Despite all this, the company and family saw a good deal of success, until the founder died in 1958. In his memory, Detmer left only a plot of gardens, Detmer Nurseries, near his home in Tarrytown, New York, all of which were destroyed in 1975 for a new residential development project, leaving no tangible family legacy.

All this to say, there’s not much left of the company, except perhaps these beautifully detailed men’s style guides. From what I can tell they were published on a seasonal basis, in Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer, and for the menswear history nerds out there, they’re an interesting and accurate time capsule of men’s style in the urban United States. Somehow, I doubt the Detmer family ever imagined these would be amongst their longest lasting artifacts, but if we’re still flipping through them and passing them around (digitally or otherwise), over 70 years later, I’d say it’s not such a bad legacy to have.  – M

Last week Jahn and Kurt of BKLYN DRYGOODS relaunched their new ecomm site and I have to hand it to them; they’ve done an incredible job. It’s the Mr. Porter of vintage menswear sites—that is to say, amongst their competitors, BKLYN DRYGOODS is raising the bar, just ask the fine dudes over at Complex. While the ever growing brand has vintage at its core, lately I’ve also been impressed by Jahn and Kurt’s eye for new items made by fellow BK craftsmen.  Among them is Carlos Aguilera, founder of bow tie company, Necks Tuesday. As the story goes, Carlos was working as a barber at Freeman’s when he started making his own bow ties. The other barbers dug them, the word spread, and before long his handiwork was enough in demand that Necks Tuesday was born. One and a half years after his scissors went from hairs to fabrics, Carlos continues to handcraft bow ties out of his Navy Yard studio, right down the hall from the new BKLYN DRYGOODS space.

This weekend I was lucky enough that Carlos was in his studio while I was visiting Jahn and Kurt, and he allowed me to nose around and take some shots. The space was a rare mixture of Brooklyn craft and Brooklyn cool — the floral covered door to the space opened into a sparse workspace, where Carlos, in beat up Chucks and rad socks, was busy sewing a new order of 25 seersucker bow ties on an OG Singer machine that sported an OG Vans sticker on it. An unexpected and completely enjoyable afternoon. All of it, including the bow ties themselves, captured below. – M

// purchase at BKLYNDRYGOODS.com/shop  and neckstuesday.com